Nizwa Fort is "hardly the most breathtaking set of battlements in Oman," according to Lonely Planet. Even so, the large complex of buildings has been recently restored to the grandeur it had when built in the mid 17th century by a local religious leader (who was also the government leader, of course). The fort was used for defense, as a palace, and as a prison. Life was rather stark: the john was a hole in the ground, there was little furniture, and anyone who didn't want to eat dates starved quickly. The view of the mosque, the mountains, and the surrounding palm-filled city makes the trip worth it. The fort itself is a large set of buildings that is fun to wander aimlessly about.

Bill, from Manchester in the UK, wrote the following to me:

I served 8 weeks on the outskirts of the village whilst in the British army (Royal Signals) in 1961. I actually went to the top of the Fort /prison and the prisoners were let out for exercise during my visit. The came up a ladder from a trap door on the flat roof of the fort clad in ankle chains with a steel bar across which they had to hold up by a short chain connected to the centre of the bar. They then walked round the area in single file for about 20 minutes and were then sent back down and padlocked in. It was a sight that I will never forget as the temperature was well over 100 degrees farenheit.

One day we visited the local bazaar [pictured above] in Nizwa. I was struck by the number of young male children who were blinded in one eye. On asking our guide why this was, he said that when very young the parents deliberately pricked the eye causing blindness and therefore lessening their chances of having to serve in the Sultan's army. Whether this is true I don't know but I do know that the locals at that time were absolutely terrified of the Sultan and there was no respect, but only fear of him.