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Dubai, United Arab Emirates

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It's a shame that my camera broke in Dubai, because this page has become the most popular among my round-the-world pages. Dubai was really cool--not literally; it was actually 104 deg F (40 deg C) while I was there, and it felt like a sauna. Still, I think that Dubai's residents were quite friendly (see more below about the dhow workers).

For my American friends: Dubai is a wealthy state in the United Arab Emirates, a group of seven emirates formed in 1971 when the British left the Persian Gulf. Dubai makes its money from trade. Trade began in earnest in 1903 when the emir of nearby Sharjah allowed his port to silt up and imposed taxes to boot, which allowed Dubai to persuade the main Britain-India steamship line to make Dubai their main Gulf port-of-call. The trade was mostly "re-export," a euphemism for smuggling. Today Dubai's trade is mostly legal, although it still boasts some of the world's best duty free shops. Walking through a Dubai mall is quite an experience, especially when an Arab in a traditional robe pulls out a giant wad of bills and buys a digital camcorder... Because the population didn't grow nearly as fast as the commercial opportunity, Dubai has come to rely on masses of imported labor. In this sense, Dubai is like New York City: nobody is from there, and nobody plans on staying long.

If I look like I'm being totally ripped off and can't help it, it's because I am. My digital camera (a Sony that was all of a month old) broke in Dubai and I had to buy another. Nothing in Dubai has a warranty, so they take your picture to prove to you that your merchandise works. This is the picture they took of me. Despite my bargaining all day long, I still had to pay US$80 more than I should have. The shirt was purchased at El Corte Inglés in Madrid: "que buenas las rebajas!"
Dubai's tourism bureau promotes Dubai as a land of contrasts: big and modern buildings alongside the dhow wharf that hasn't changed in 1000 years, except that now some of the dhows haul refrigerators and electronics instead of date honey. The turism bureau is right on that point. Dubai would like to think itself the Hong Kong of the middle east, but I doubt that anyone yet rivals the awesomeness of Hong Kong.

Local trade in the Middle East is primarily by dhow, the same old wooden boats that have plied the Persian Gulf for millennia. Dhows are basically wooden cargo ships of 30 to 130 feet that go between all the small ports on the Persian Gulf, plus around to Pakistan and southern Iran. At Dubai, the dhows are unloaded, and lorries come pick up the goods. Totally overloaded, they then head off. Manufactured goods generally get loaded in Dubai for shipment to the hinterlands. Since dhows aren't exactly FedEx, giant piles of goods get stacked along the wharfs waiting for shipment. Crew often sleep atop the goods, presumably to prevent theft, although Dubai is generally an orderly society. These three pictures were taken along Dubai creek, just inland from the Persian Gulf.

Dhow workers are some of the coolest people I met in the whole world. Their English is quite limited, but many will strike up a conversation with a foreigner just to find out where they're from. I had one fellow explain that he was from Iran and asked where I was from. I had to say a bit sheepishly that I was from the U.S., which took him quite by surprise! I had dinner at a cheap restaurant along the wharf and joined several Pakistani dhow workers as "our President" spoke on television after the Agra Summit collapsed.

The big container companies like Maersk Sea\Land or P&O Nedlloyd haven't taken over local Gulf shipping, but they do have a big nearby container port used on the India to Europe routes. The smattering of small towns along the Gulf are too small to serve profitably by any vehicle except by dhow.

Dubai is like a sauna, but it's wet heat. Immediately upon going outside, such as here on my hotel balcony overlooking the creek, one's glasses fog up. The temperature at this time was 103 degrees with near 100% humidity.
A pleasure traveler's hotel room: a bed overloaded with clothes, souvenirs, suitcases, and the sports section of the newspaper... and a work desk completely empty!