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Dubai, United
Arab Emirates
Click on
the pictures to enlarge
It's a shame that my camera
broke in Dubai, because this page has become the most popular among
my round-the-world pages. Dubai was really
cool--not literally; it was actually 104 deg F (40 deg C) while I was
there, and it felt like a sauna. Still, I think that Dubai's residents
were quite friendly (see more below about the dhow workers).
For my American friends:
Dubai is a wealthy state in the United Arab Emirates, a group of seven
emirates formed in 1971 when the British left the Persian Gulf. Dubai
makes its money from trade. Trade began in earnest in 1903 when the
emir of nearby Sharjah allowed his port to silt up and imposed taxes
to boot, which allowed Dubai to persuade the main Britain-India steamship
line to make Dubai their main Gulf port-of-call. The trade was mostly
"re-export," a euphemism for smuggling. Today Dubai's trade
is mostly legal, although it still boasts some of the world's best duty
free shops. Walking through a Dubai mall is quite an experience, especially
when an Arab in a traditional robe pulls out a giant wad of bills and
buys a digital camcorder... Because the population didn't grow nearly
as fast as the commercial opportunity, Dubai has come to rely on masses
of imported labor. In this sense, Dubai is like New York City: nobody
is from there, and nobody plans on staying long.
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If I look
like I'm being totally ripped off and can't help it, it's because
I am. My digital camera (a Sony that was all of a month old) broke
in Dubai and I had to buy another. Nothing in Dubai has a warranty,
so they take your picture to prove to you that your merchandise works.
This is the picture they took of me. Despite my bargaining all day
long, I still had to pay US$80 more than I should have. The shirt
was purchased at El Corte Inglés in Madrid: "que buenas
las rebajas!" |
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Dubai's tourism
bureau promotes Dubai as a land of contrasts: big and modern
buildings alongside the dhow wharf that hasn't changed in 1000 years,
except that now some of the dhows haul refrigerators and electronics
instead of date honey. The turism bureau is right on that point. Dubai
would like to think itself the Hong Kong of the middle east, but I
doubt that anyone yet rivals the awesomeness of Hong
Kong. |
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Local trade in the Middle
East is primarily by dhow, the same old wooden boats that
have plied the Persian Gulf for millennia. Dhows are basically wooden
cargo ships of 30 to 130 feet that go between all the small ports
on the Persian Gulf, plus around to Pakistan and southern Iran.
At Dubai, the dhows are unloaded, and lorries come pick up the goods.
Totally overloaded, they then head off. Manufactured goods generally
get loaded in Dubai for shipment to the hinterlands. Since dhows
aren't exactly FedEx, giant piles of goods get stacked along the
wharfs waiting for shipment. Crew often sleep atop the goods, presumably
to prevent theft, although Dubai is generally an orderly society.
These three pictures were taken along Dubai creek, just inland from
the Persian Gulf.
Dhow workers are some
of the coolest people I met in the whole world. Their English is
quite limited, but many will strike up a conversation with a foreigner
just to find out where they're from. I had one fellow explain that
he was from Iran and asked where I was from. I had to say a bit
sheepishly that I was from the U.S., which took him quite by surprise!
I had dinner at a cheap restaurant along the wharf and joined several
Pakistani dhow workers as "our President" spoke on television
after the Agra Summit collapsed.
The big container companies
like Maersk Sea\Land or P&O Nedlloyd haven't taken over local
Gulf shipping, but they do have a big nearby container port used
on the India to Europe routes. The smattering of small towns along
the Gulf are too small to serve profitably by any vehicle except
by dhow.
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Dubai is like
a sauna, but it's wet heat. Immediately upon going outside,
such as here on my hotel balcony overlooking the creek, one's glasses
fog up. The temperature at this time was 103 degrees with near 100%
humidity. |
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A pleasure
traveler's hotel room: a bed overloaded with clothes, souvenirs,
suitcases, and the sports section of the newspaper... and a work desk
completely empty! |
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