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Bhutan travel
advice
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Here's
what Lonely
Planet Bhutan
doesn't tell you, and some points worth saying again:
- You have
to pay the government tarriff. The government
of Bhutan is wary of letting masses of tourists run roughshod
over their fragile culture, which is why they use economics to
limit entry to only 7000 foreign tourists annually (although there
is no limit per se). This is accomplished by requiring
all travelers to pay a tarriff, around $200/day, for entry. The
fee also includes services of guides, land transport, lodging,
food, yaks, mules, and horses (when needed). Unless you have an
Indian passport, you can't get around that requirement. They check
when you arrive. Thorntree
has stories of travelers walking into Bhutan from Tibet and getting
deported.
Unfortunately, some recent tour books (not LP) perpetuate
the myth that it is required to have a government invitation to
travel to Bhutan and that travel must occur in a group. While
a visa is required, group travel is not. Vist the government
of Bhutan if you need to prove it to yourself.
- Book with
a Bhutanese tour operator. You can't go wrong since all tour
operators are government regulated. I used Etho Metho because
I liked one of the tours on their website.
Booking a tour to Bhutan is as easy as falling off a log once
you find what you want to do. E-mail the Bhutanese
contact to save them the 10% commission that would be paid
to their American agent. (The difficulty of making a wire transfer
to New York City is greatly exaggerated in Lonely Planet, provided
you have a semi-competent banker.) Don't book through a non-Bhutanese
group tour unless you're masochistic and like group tours. You're
paying a needless markon to the US operator, and if you're an
independent traveler, it's worth paying the $40FIT charge to avoid
having a roommate and doing things on the group's schedule.
- Go in
February or the shoulder seasons.
Feb is charged as if it were the off-season (save $35/day) but
the skies are clear and you're more likely to get into monastaries
and temples that the tour books say you will never get into (that
is, if your guide is willing to ask... be nice to him). In February,
it will be cold, especially at night, but you'll have the country
to yourself. Lonely Planet overstates the snow risk in February.
- Declare
yourself vegetarian. Generally, the meat in Bhutan is of low
quality and comes in strange cuts hauled from India on the back
of trucks without chilling equipment. Especially avoid pork; it
is often very fatty and stiff and is also most likely to mess
up your stomach. The beef isn't much better (we all know that
Indian beef is terrible) and the occasional fish is typically
fried deeper than an elementary school fish stick. You'll eat
well in Bhutan (especially if you like chili peppers), but you
can't go wrong telling your tour operator before you arrive that
you're a vegetarian.
- Change
plenty of $$ at the airport. Plan on $10/day (if you like
buying incidentals). Bhutan isn't an expensive country (e.g. 31
US cents for a litre of bottled water), but you'll be inconvenienced
if you run out of money anywhere outside Thimpu. Dollars are OK
for larger purposes if you have exact change, and you can easily
use up your leftover rupees from a trip to India while in Bhutan.
It took me a half hour to change money at the Bank of Bhutan in
Trongsa, partially because the teller couldn't recall how to write
the transaction in the ledger (no computers). You can give whatever
Nu are left over as a tip to your guide. Don't plan on using a
credit card. If the authorization office isn't open or if the
person answering the phone doesn't pick-up for whatever reason,
your card is useless. Visa is most widely accepted.
- Watch
out for incidentals. Among the great Bhutanese annoyances
are the $20 visa fee, the Nu.300 departure tax, and the extra
charges for soda, fruit juice, and water at meals. In an ideal
world, these items would be included in the daily tarriff rather
than nickle-and-dimed out of you.
- Bring
a torch. Electricity is unreliable and hotels often don't
have generators (but they do have candles in every room).
Bring Dramamine or other anti-motion-sickness medication
if you venture east of Thimpu. The east-west highway is in bad
shape beyond Thimpu and is miserable east of Trongsa on the day-long
drive from Punakha to Bumthang.
Bring soap and shampoo as Bhutanese hotels sometimes don't
provide these.
Bring a 3-pin Indian converter, which is not standard on
"global" converter sets. If you need a converter, you'll
have to wait till you get to Thimpu, where there are a dozen or
more electrical shops. Here is a Bhutanese
outlet--check now if you have the right converter.
- Don't
let Druk Air hold your tickets. Druk Air held my tickets at
Bangkok and lost them, refusing to issue me a boarding pass. Fortunately
they found them before the flight departed. Also, Druk Air does
enforce the 20kg baggage limit.
- Don't
give anything to beggars, urchins, or grifters. This is good
advise even here in Chicago, but the government of Bhutan strongly
discourages tourists from giving anything (money, gifts, etc.)
to Bhutanese beggars, and the police will chastise you if they
see you. Bhutanese are hard working and self reliant, but I did
encounter some boys near Punakha who wanted rupees. Don't feel
obligated to pay children if they give you permission to take
their pictures, although some will ask you to post a copy of the
pictures to them. I also encountered a grifter in Jakar who wanted
me to give him USD for Peruvian money (which was probably fake).
Before parting with anything more than a few dollars, talk to
your guide. He can tell you if the price is reasonable. Bargaining
is not common except in the weekend market, and prices are arrived
at quickly.
- Be respectful
of the Bhutanese. They are really friendly people who are
often too kind to tell you when you're making a faux pas.
Walk clockwise around chortens, take off your shoes in areas of
prayer, don't bring out your camera in temples, don't raise your
voice, don't be offended by the phalluses and erotic scenes painted
on monastary walls, and don't act like a jerk from Chicago. Bhutan
is literally and culturally as far around the world as it's possible
to get from Chicago, which is a prime reason I went.
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