Sukhothai was founded in 1238 when a coalition of Thais booted from northern Thailand the Khmer, who ruled from Ankor Wat in present-day Siem Reap, Cambodia (the name means "flattened Thai soldier" and underscores the significant present-day Thai-Khmer tensions). The rule of Sukhothai lasted over 120 years until the 1300s and the rise of Ayutthaya, which ruled until sacked by the Burmese in 1765, prompting the capital to move to present-day Bangkok. Sukhothai is a UNESCO World Hertiage City, although I admit I have no idea what structures made it such. The reason is that I had no plans to go to Sukhothai, although I think I would gladly "return."

When I boarded the flight to Luang Prabang (LPQ) from Bangkok, it was announced that I was actually going to Sukhothai, which worried me a bit since I had already made my way through passport control and paid the THB 500 international departure tax. But in Sukhothai I ended up.

That said, if you want more Sukhothai, I would recommend the TAT website.

Yup, this whole page is nothing but the Sukhothai airport. That's the runway up at the very top behind the lily pond, and the terminal is in the middle picture. The terminal is completely open-air (no windows), free drinks and snacks are provided by the airport, there is free internet access, and Western magazines are left on coffee tables like in a doctor's office. The security guards will pose for pictures (which is unthinkable elsewhere in Asia). There are no swipe card readers, no stupid "keep your bags with you at all times" PA annoucements, and no FAA officials anywhere. (God, they'd have a field day here.) Little trolley cars come to greet the plane and ferry guests to the terminal.

Frankly, this is why international travel is so much more enjoyable than US travel. Even though the palm trees on the planes make Bangkok Airways look like ATA (the worst US airline), it has retained a hint of the relaxing and romantic Oriental Express philosophy of travel that has been completely lost even in First Class on US airlines. There is one place in the world where airlines still try to provide a comfortable experience for their passengers.

It's hard to believe that Sukhothai is on the same planet as, say, O'Hare or Heathrow, and that's likely because Sukhothai Airport is owned by Bangkok Airways, which understands that passengers value convenience and might actually be willing to pay a bit for it. Of course, the folks coming to Sukhothai understand that, even after Sept 11, air travel is far safer than automobile travel. People who make it to Sukhothai also understand that the intensive security checks at US airports are little more than window-dressing designed to "reassure a frightened public" that actually results in needless hassle and public nervousness.

Buying a Bangkok Airways ticket is another experience. When I couldn't get the flight I wanted, I called the local office, which took my name and called back a few hours later. I told the woman which flight I wanted, and she said she'd "work to get me on." A week later I called and she promised, "I'll get you on." Perhaps 10 days later she called and said a seat had opened up that I could have. (Yes, the same person the whole time.) I grabbed my checkbook, walked down the street to the CTO, paid a fellow from Lithuanian Air who shared the office, and took the paper ticket that was waiting.