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Bangkok, Thailand
(pg 2)
Click on
the pictures to enlarge
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See Bangkok
page 1 for a more general description of Thailand and Bangkok
in particular.
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If India has
the Taj Mahal and Beijing has the Forbidden City, then the quintessential
Thai tourist stop is the Grand Palace complex (official
website), which was among the first construction projects when
the new capital was moved to Bangkok in 1782. Four walls each 1.2
miles long surround the enormous complex of 100 buildings, which
was built by King Rama I as both his residence and an administrative
complex.
The Grand Palace
and Wat Pra Kaew (Temple of the Emerald Buddha) are part of a section
of old Bangkok where a visitor could easily spend a day or two and
not have covered the sites (or sights?). I'll cover just what you
get for the $5 at the Grand Palace complex. For those two days,
plan on wearing close-toed shoes, long pants, and covering your
shoulders, else you may be forced to shell out a few more bhat to
rent appropriate dress at the gate.
The upper terrace
contains several religious buildings close together, including statues,
the Golden Chedi (shown), the Royal Pantheon, and even a
curious miniature model of Ankor Wat. A chedi, or stupa in other
Buddhist countries, typically holds a Buddha relic; theft of the
relic is among the more serious crimes in many Buddhist societies.
All are well-maintained and covered in a baroque assortment of gold,
jewels, shiny mosiacs, or at least bright paint.
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Wat Pra Kaew
(Temple of the Jewel Holy Image) is among the holiest sites
in Thailand, and accordingly photography is not permitted inside.
The building is a giant temple of soaring ceilings covered in every
square foot with prostrating believers. While many temples contain
the largest Buddha that could possibly fit inside, this enormous
wat features a tiny green-jade Buddha barely 2 feet tall perched
on an altar high over worshippers' heads. The "emerald"
buddha's suit of clothes is changed by the King at each of Thailand's
three seasons: summer, rainy season, and winter.
The small statue
is quite mysterious and has a long history, on which the Lonely
Planet history and the official history disagree. So don't take
my word on any of this. Probably carved in the 12th or 13th century,
the figure was discovered in a stupa in Chiang Rai in 1434 covered
in plaster and gold leaf. The plaster chipped off after a storm
damaged the stupa, and a monk noticed the emerald-like carving underneath.
The image spent time in various cities depending on the local king's
preference. In the 1550s, either through marriage (official history)
or through invasion (Lonely Planet), the Buddha was moved
to Luang Prabang, where
it stayed until King Rama I captured the Lao capital at Vientiane
and brought the statue to the new capital at Bangkok four years
later. Where it goes from here is anybody's choice.
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Everybody
has to take a break from a long day of sightseeing. |
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The
Grand Palace itself, shown, was built in 1882 by Rama V and
British architects who were said to merely put a Thai headdress upon
the Italian Renissance structure. The structure is mostly closed except
for the weapons store in the lower level, which features numerous
American guns and I think I even remember a Chicago typewriter. The
Grand Palace itself is either not used much anymore (Lonely Planet)
or used frequently (official publications), but whatever, both sides
agree that the Throne Hall is used for such functions as reception
of foreign ambassadors, coronations, and gaining the admiration of
tourists for its "royal bombast." |
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The
pickup truck was moved to the Grand Palace compound by a subject
of Rama IX in early 2003, roughly the time of this picture
being taken. |
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