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The road to
Punakha, Kingdom of Bhutan
Click on
the pictures to enlarge
| While
the Paro-Thimpu road crosses rather stark and barren terrain, the
road to Punakha (from Thimpu) traverses thick forests of blue pine,
oak and maple. After Dochu La, it descends into hemlock, cypress,
and the like. By one's arrival in the Punakha (the "k" is
almost silent) valley, one will find more tropical plants like banana,
mango, orange, and even cactus and pomegranate. The road, built in
1984, is tolerable but gets gradually worse going east. |
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The
village of Hongtsho (elev 9480 ft) was settled by Tibetans
who fled after the Chinese invasion of 1959. Tibetan villages
are easily identified by the white facades, less ornamental painting,
and black beams. However, more assimilated areas, such as Trongsa,
are hard to identify as heavily Tibetan. Tibetans and Bhutanese, despite
a few centuries of fighting, generally consider each other brothers. |
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The
valleys between ridges often have small rivulets and occasionally
waterfalls. Some of the rivulets have been harnessed for the spinning
of prayer wheels. Inside this shed-like building is a single
large wheel driven by the rivulet. |
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A large chorten
and prayer flags greet your arrival at Dochu La, a pass at
10,300 ft. There is a small cafeteria just above the pass, which
features some of the most overpriced goods I've encountered anywhere
in the world (running into the hundreds of dollars). Theoretically,
from this point it is possible to see peaks up to 24,734 ft (although
Lonely Planet disagrees with itself as to the height of this peak).
Unfortunately, a clear day is as rare in Himalaya as a smog-free
day in Beijing.
The area is
believed to be inhabited by a plethora of not-so-nice spirits, including
a cannibal demoness. Fortunately, the Divine Madman built
a lhakhang to subdue them.
Around the pass
I encountered some daphne, a tough bush used to make paper.
I tried to break it and lost. (It reminded me the last time I arm-wrestled.
I lost to a girl... in 6th grade.)
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Here
is a rare clear day at Dochu La, sent to me by C.C., who is
working for the Australian Development Bank in Bhutan, one of very
few foreigners to be allowed to work in Bhutan. Along the very back
snowy ridge are some of the world's tallest mountains. Click the pic
to enlarge. |
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I
believe that this is the village of Thinleygang (elev 6100
ft). The local local farmers have had significant problems from predators
attacking their domestic animals. They have worked nightshifts screaming
or banging objects to keep the predators away. The village is similar
to many others seen along the road, with small 2-story and 3-story
houses rising like mushroom stems out of the terraced fields. |
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It's
not a blue poppy, but actually the Primula denticulata. |
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