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Phobjikha Valley, Bhutan
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The Phobjikha Valley is a high glacial valley just beyond the Pele La pass. Aside from a goemba (monastery) and overall being an attractive valley dotted with houses and cattle pastures, Phobjikha would be totally unremarkable... except for the endangered black-necked cranes that winter here. A few hundred of the world's population of 5600 to 6000 cranes fly to Phobjikha between Oct 23 and 26, departing in mid-February. The cranes are the subject of several dances and rituals among the valley's residents, who likely would have great respect for the bird even if it were not endangered. Ironically, the crane's October arrival signals to villagers that the time has come to pack up and move to warmer climates before being snowed-in for winter. Even today, the valley has no electricity (except solar and mini-hydro) or telephones out of fear that stringing up power lines could injure the cranes. The valley is also rumored to be the home of various species of barking deer, bears, leopards, foxes, and boars, although as you might expect, I saw none. |
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The small village of Gangte occupies a hill overlooking the valley, where the cranes roost. |
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A monk in maroon robes makes his way past prayer flags to Gangte and its goemba, Gangte Goemba. Pema Lingpa (1450-1521), Bhutan's most important terma (discoverer of Guru Rinpoche's hidden artifacts), visited the valley and prophesied that a goemba would be built on the hill to spread his teachings. A man who was his grandson and the first reincarnation of his mind built a temple here in 1613, and his second reincarnation built the goemba. The ninth reincarnation of Pema Lingpa is the current abbot. |
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The black-necked cranes that make Phobjikha famous are easily spotted from a wooden hide. They roost along the wetlands at the floor of the valley, but occasionally a villager will walk along and stir them into flight. Unfortunately, the icon marking the hide on the Lonely Planet map looks a lot like a redneck with a rifle, but I think it's an Audobon Society member with binoculars. (Or maybe a redneck Audobon Society member with rifle-mounted binocs!) |
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The cows come home early in the afternoon. Oops... these are steers. |
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