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October 25, 2004
Yugoslav busses are fun as a barrel of monkeys
BEOGRAD, SERBIA: Today was a travel day, as it takes all day to go from Sarajevo to Beograd, known better by the needlessly-Anglicized name Belgrade, formerly the capital of Yugoslavia and now the capital of the Federation of Serbia and Montenegro. I've commented earlier on Yugoslavian autobuskas, and only because of the miracle drug Dramamine did I survive seven-and-a-half hours on a carbon-monoxide-filled old rumbler today.
Because it goes to Serbia, the bus line does not start in Sarajevo (where, as I explain below, they don't really like the Serbs.) Instead, one takes a taxi from Sarajevo across an unmarked border to a semi-autonomous country called Republika Srpska, or the Serb half of Bosna i Hercegovina. By the way, Srpska counts as country #54 on the way to membership in the Travelers' Century Club. Srpska is very mountainous, with lots of switchbacks and wide vistas dotted with ethnically-cleansed villages. Srpska gradually flattens out until the land is almost perfectly flat in Serbia's Carpathian basin. All the while, the bus is stopping and starting as Serbs board at one village and alight at the next.
The countryside in Serbia actually resembles Indiana--broad, flat, and lots of corn. However, the inhabitants of these hinterlands are still rather poor: heating is by wood, there are livestock pens instead of grassy lawns, the small combines only pick one row at a time, houses are brick but very small, and the horse-and-dray is still used. Darkness and fog set in, and driving becomes quite hazardous. The bus thunders past unlit tractors towing multiple trailers full with corn. The bus driver flashes the dipper (high-beams) at oncoming traffic in a dangerous game of chicken. I feel like I'm on the Estonia running full-screw into a giant storm. Finally, 30 miles outside Beograd, I see a four-lane limited-access highway and I feel like I'm back in America.
Posted by adrianjo at October 25, 2004 12:03 PM
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