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October 21, 2004
Where have all the beggars gone? (Dubrovnik, Croatia)
DUBROVNIK, on the DALMATIAN COAST, CROATIA (HRVATSKA): I was a bit worried when I first arrived in Dubrovnik that it was overrun with cruise ship passengers, perhaps the most annoying tourists in the world. Cities that receive cruise ships are the whores of the tourist world. They get crawled over by the passengers and receive no economic benefit except the docking fee and the purchase of a few Cokes and handicrafts in town. This is true of Dubrovnik, but only during the day. In the evening, the Croat families, kids, and seniors come out of the woodwork to reclaim their streets. As for me, I found places to go during the day that didn't involve rubbing elbows with cruise ship lame-os. Perhaps Holland America Line and I have found a peaceful coexistance.
Dubrovnik is a very middle-class city, in fact, really middle class. There are almost no fancy cars of houses and yet also no really sketchy people. In fact, it occurs to me that since I left Italy, I have seen no beggars, drifters, grifters, bums, street-people, alms-seekers, or other layabouts and slugabeds. There were beggars in all the rich and socially liberal Scandinavian countries, in Italy (gobs of them), in Belgium--in fact, in all the wealthy Robin Hood countries that liberals would have America emulate, there were beggars. But none in Croatia, a country only a dozen years removed from a civil war. Maybe it's because here, without a government handout, unemployment check, shelter, and soup kitchen around every corner, it makes sense for people to earn their daily bread. Now there's a novel idea. Viola.
In other news, now that I'm in my mid-20s, I'm starting to realize that I'm not a pre-teen boy anymore. Tonight, the hotel is completely overrun with little uncontrollable German brats, resulting in several complaints to the front desk. (As a side note, a widespread decline of manners in Germany has led to Germans being considered the least-liked Europeans in surveys.) At first, I wasn't going to disturb the kids' fun--boys will be boys. But the one and only bus to Mostar leaves at 8h00 tomorrow and I need my sleep. Front desk? By the way, in other bad news, there is no funicular in Dubrovnik. I don't know what Lonely Planet was drawing on the map of Dubrovnik, but it's not a funicular. Bummer.
- Croatia: Lokrum Island. The clear waters of the Adriatic are really amazing. This uninhabited island, home of a popular nude beach, was one of my sanctuaries from the cruise ship crowd whilst it occupied Dubrovnik today. No Richard Hatch sightings, but I did see a dude that looks a lot like Howard Stern.
- Croatia: Dubrovnik. Every Croat has a boat, no matter how small. Speaking of being a very middle class city, most of the boats are roughly the same size.
- Croatia: Dubrovnik. Croatian kindergarteners learn to wear sandwich boards and sing. I would feel like the boy in the middle... notice the girl behind him so excited to be doing whatever they were doing.
- Croatia: Dubrovnik. If you look at no other picture on this website (except the pic of Kotor fjord below), here is a great view of Dubrovnik's red-tile roofs and Lokrum Island in the Adriatic Sea. Here is a smaller version.
Posted by adrianjo at October 21, 2004 12:19 PM
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