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September 18, 2004

When bauds and whores do cities build and taxes pay

AMSTERDAM, NEDERLANDS: I write from Amsterdam today. By mid-afternoon, I still wasn't sure how I would spend one of my last free weekends in Europe, so I booked a Thalys here and a room at a one-star hotel. (I figured it was too late to try to impose on the guys from the Dutch office.) By the way, I've never been a fan of the star rating system, because I've stayed in some 3-star dumps, and this one-star place is actually fairly good. For once Frommer's and I agree on something. And the owner had a picture of my apartment building in Chicago hanging on the wall.

Amsterdam's reputation preceeds it. The city is the seediest I've ever been to. (I have to wonder what CS would think of this place, since she says that Hyannis is seedy.) With pot legal, Amsterdam smeels like an art teacher's office. I think I inhaled so much weed that I may be high right now, but I'm not really sure. I just feel very mellow and I want to listen to Michael Bolton. Am I high? I must be. Nonetheless, temptation is everywhere here: legal pot, psychadellic mushrooms, various paraphenalia, cocaine sold openly, sex shows, the red light district, public outdoor urinals, and--evilest of all--$22 souvernir t-shirts.

There isn't much in travel that shocks me anymore. There's the wealth in Monaco, watching MTV in the remote Himalayas, and Auschwitz-Birkeneau death camp. Add Amsterdam's Red Light district.

Amsterdam's Red Light district is a rather compact area along two streets and a canal. Perhaps half the buildings have glass doors in which young women sit or stand in lingerie with red lights, a bit like betas in fishtanks. Johns circumambultate the district, occasionally stopping to ogle or negotiate a deal. It's like Halloween for perverted grown-ups. Some of the girls are dressed up as nurses or schoolgirls. The johns are a motley bunch including well-dressed European businessmen and turbaned Shikhs. As at Halloween, there are also plenty of tricks, maybe some treats, some knocking on doors, and trying to get (eye) candy in the sack.

Feminists might claim that this is the worst sort of objectifying women for the sake of men's deviant gratification. It probably is, but it's not so black-and-white. According to the Prostitute Information Centre, the women are individual entrepreneurs who pay rent, report taxes, set their own rates, and attempt to earn customer loyalty despite a very competetive markeplace. Add to this the fact that a night's work involves a dozen encounters where only a few microns of latex separate one from potentially-fatal disease, and one has to have a bit of respect for a person who can earn her daily bread this way.

It's also good to see that Amsterdam has found a way to make safer an activity that people around the world engage in. Even though sex slavery remains a problem, at least a dangerous activity can be carried out under legal supervision rather than on the corners near my apartment in Brussels (where it is quite annoying).

Posted by adrianjo at September 18, 2004 12:57 PM

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